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Fabric hainds can be 'an important design feature of a garment as well as finish the edge of a neckline, armhole, sleeve, center front opening, or hem. They can take many shapes, such as square, round, keyhole, V-neck, or straight. Sometimes the band will extend only part way down the garment front to form a placket. Knit bands can be used for neckline or sleeve finishes on knitted garments. Subtle in self-fabric or bold in contrasting colors, fabric bands can accent any edge.
An applied band is usually cut from a shaped pattern piece. The two layers are stitched together and then the band is applied to the garment edge. For a hernline, the band may be cut on the bias with an extended facing, which is turned up along the fold line.
Staystitch the edge of the garment directionally and insert the zipper, if necessary. Stitch the interfacing to one band section and trim close to the stitching. (If the band sections have seams, stitch them before you join the band to its facing.) Then pin and baste the band sections together,'leaving the notched edge open. Stitch; then trim, grade, and clip the seam allowances, leaving the interfaced band seam allowance widest (1). Turn the band and press it flat.
Pin and baste the edge of the interfaced band section to the garment, matching markings at shoulder seams and clipping the garment seam allowance. Stitch from the band side for the best control, then trim and grade the seam, leaving the garment seam allowance the widest (2).
Notch the band seam allowances to eliminate extra fullness so that all seam allowances can be pressed toward the band. Turn the band, rolling the seam just slightly to the inside to prevent it from being seen on the finished garment; pin.
Turn the remaining free edge under where it falls over the stitching and baste close to the edge. Trim away any excess seam allowance close to the basting. Slipstitch the band over the seamline (3). Fasten the band with books and thread eyes.
When a flat finish is desired for the band, finish the free edge with a stitch-and-overcast or zigzag treatment. Do not turn the edge under, however. Just blindstitch the free edge where it falls, covering the band seam completely (4).
| © Ragnar Torfason|
2006 March 28