Tempus' Sewing & Garb Accessories Weeb Site: Linen

	Tempus' Sewing & Garb Accessories Weeb Site
	Fabrics Linen

A fabric woven from flax. The cultivation of flax dates from ancient times. Evidence from specimens found of both the linen material and seeds and capsules of the flax plant show that linen was woven in Europe and the Middle East as early as 3000 Bc. The flax fibres were strong and had good spinning qualities. Egypt was the chief producer of the fabric and some of the specimens discovered are of a fine texture and quality. White linen was greatly admired and became a symbol of purity, even divinity; it was widely used in the costume of priests and clergy in ancient times by the Egyptians, Greeks and Romans and, later, the Christian Church. The process of making a woven linen fabric from the flax plant is depicted in a number of tomb paintings in ancient Egypt; it is a process which has altered little over the centuries since that time. The flax plants, pulled by hand, were bound into bundles and dried. They were then combed to remove the seed capsules and soaked in water in order to separate the fibres from the hard centre. The fibres were then beaten, washed and dressed, spun and woven. Over the centuries linen has been woven in varied qualities and textures from the finest lawns to the coarser burlap. Most notable were:

Book linen a firm material used as a stiffening.

Burlap - originally finer but now a coarse linen, like canvas.

Butcher's - a coarse linen, often homespun - used for butcher's aprons and coats.

Cambric - a fine, white linen first made at Canibray (in Flemish, kame '"k).

Dowlas - a coarse linen made in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries at Daoulas in Brittany. The name now applies to a strong calico of similar character.

Duck -a firmly-woven white linen used for washable trousers and sportswear.

Holland - a strong linen made in and named after the country. Often unbleached when it is termed brown holland.

Irish - bleached, fine, plain-woven linen.

Lawn - a very fine, white linen resembling cambric. Named after Laon in France where it was first made. Used widely over the centuries for shirts, handkerchiefs, ruffs and collars, blouses, aprons, dresses and clerical vestments. Quintin, a sheer, fine lawn, from its town of origin in Brittany.

Leno - a type of linen gauze.

Moygashel - trade name for an Irish linen of exceptional wearing qualities. Used especially for suits, dresses and coats.

Osnabriick (Osnaburg) - a coarse linen originally made at Osnabrilek in Germany.

Linsey-Woolsey Originally a coarse fabric of wool and linen said to have been first woven at Linsey in England. Later, a wool material woven upon a cotton warp, used in quantity in the American Colonies. cambric. Named after Laon in France where it was first made. Used widely over the centuries for shirts, handkerchiefs, ruffs and collars, blouses, aprons, dresses and clerical vestments. Quintin, a sheer, fine lawn, from its town of origin in Brittany.

Leno - a type of linen gauze.

Moygashel - trade name for an Irish linen of exceptional wearing qualities. Used especially for suits, dresses and coats.

Osnabriick (Osnaburg) - a coarse linen originally made at Osnabrilek in Germany.


		© Ragnar Torfason 2006 March 28