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		Zipper Fly

RECOMMENDED SEWING PROCEDURES

Use a synthetic thread and a No. 10/70 or 12/80 sewing machine needle. Steam press each seam as it is sewn.

USING STRETCH FABRIC We recommend using a roller presser foot and loosening the pressure on the presser foot slightly.

1. REVERSE CYCLE MACHINE: Sew the seams with an elastic straight stitch. If fabric requires overcasting, use a three step zigzag. For invisible hem, use an elastic blind hem stitch. It is not necessary to stretch the fabric when sewing as these seams are elastic.

2. ZIGZAG MACHINES: Sew seams with a zigzag stitch. This seam will be stronger and more elastic. Set stitch length at 2 or 21/2, or 13 stitches to an inch; set zigzag control at slightly narrower than medium width. If fabric requires overeasting, use large zigzag stitch.

3. STRAIGHT STITCH MACHINES. Set stitch length at medium. Stretch the fabric as you sew; the fabric will snap back and your seam will be more elastic. To make a stronger seam, sew the seam twice. If fabric requires overcasting, do it by hand.

USING NON-STRETCH FABRIC Sew the seams with a medium stitch length. If fabric has a tendency to ravel, overcast the edges.

Jeans can be made from stretch and non-stretch fabric, using the some pattern.

Check measurements with the pattern to determine the correct size and length, Decide which type leg you prefer: straight or flared leg. Cut out the pattern pieces following the color coding for your size.

Fold fabric double, right sides together. Place pattern pieces on wrong side of fabric following arrows for correct grain. If using stretch fabric, the greatest degree of stretch goes around the body. Hold pattern pieces in place with weights or pins.

A 1/2" (1 1/4 cm) seam allowance is included for all seams. Cut out pattern pieces; mark them with tape or chalk

Zig zag around everything once before you start

1. Turn front pocket opening 1/2" (1 1/4 cm) to wrong side and press.

2. Pin wrong side of pocket insert to lining matching notches. On bottom edge of insert, turn under the raw edges, stitch in place. To keep insert in place sew completely around. I however make pockets square

3. Pin pocket lining to wrong side of front with pocket insert facing up. Place curved edge of lining along pressed line on pocket opening. Match notches.

4.Fold under raw edge of pocket opening and sew close to edge. Sew another seam close to outer edge.

5. Fold pocket double on folding line, match notches at waist and side seam. Form bottom of front pockets by sewing from pocket insert to folded edge. Then they can be sewn down with side seam and won't pull out.

6. To secure pockets, topstitch down from waist 1" (2 1/2 cm) in stitch row already sewn. Sew pockets to side seam.

7. Place center fronts together, right side to right side. Sew center front crotch seam between dots (from A to B). Baste center front together from B to waist.

8. Clip seam allowance to B and press center front seam allowance open.

9. Place closed zipper right side down on right front extension with left edge of zipper tape edge to edge with basted seam. Bottom of zipper teeth should end 1 1/4" (6 mm) up from point B.

10. Sew a seam close to teeth on right side. Sew only through zipper and right fly extension. a Zipper Foot will come in handy for doing this.

11. Move zipper toward left fly facing as far as it will go without puckering underneath. You still have some seam allowance on left side. Sew a seam close to left side of zipper teeth. Be sure to sew only through tape and left fly extension.

12. From right side, outline fly by top-stitching on left front 11/9" (3 cm) from center front. Sew another row of stitches 1/4" (6 mm) out from this seam.

13. Remove center front basting and open zipper

14. Fold zipper shield double, wrong side to wrong side, lengthwise. Overcast bottom edge. Cut zipper shield about 4" longer than zipper and later sew the crotch seam to the zipper shield. This will prevent the usual crotch tearing.

15. On right front place raw edge of zipper shield under zipper, right side to right side. Sew on zipper shield edge to edge with seam allowance.

16. To keep zipper shield in place, topstitch on right side close to zipper teeth through all thicknesses.

17. Secure bottom of shield by topstitching curved edge, in the same row of stitches outlining the fly. Make bar tack to prevent zipper from tearing when removing pants, bar tack will take strain not zipper.

18. Sew back yoke seams. Press seam allowance toward waist. Topstitch the yoke seam close to seam. Sew a second row of stitches 1/4" (6 mm) up toward waist.

19. Press the row edges of back pocket 1/2" (1 114 ern) to the wrong side. Topstitch top of pocket close to fold. Sew a second row of stitches 1/4" (6 mm) in from first row.

20. Pin back pockets in place. Sew a seam close to folded edge of pocket. Sew a second row of stitches 1/4" (6 ,mm) in on three sides. Sew 2 backs together and topstitch

21. Sew inside leg seams, the inside seam wears out faster so stitch them and topstitch.

22.Measurer waist and pin sides fronts and back, adjust pins til pants from zipper to zipper measure same as waist. Then sew down outside of leg from were pin is. Topstitch side down to below pocket on side and bar tack were pressure is on pocket.

24. Pin one layer of waistband to jeans right sides together, measure waist size on waist ban leaving 5" on each end (apron) mark with pins, the pins should be exactly the zipper both ends of pants Sew in place. Fold waistband double lengthwise, right side to right side. Sew across the ends of the waistband @s. Turn waistband to wrong side.

25. Fold waistband double lengthwise, right side to right side. Sew across the ends of the waistband at the end of strip. This longer tab will give a stronger place for the button and button hole, DON'T cut it off. Turn waistband to wrong side.

26. Fold under the raw edge of waist band or use the salvege edge instead, Stitch in place. Sew a seam completely around waistband close to fold. Fold back extra waist band and sew on with topstitching.

27. At center front, attach a hook and eye or make a buttonhole on left side. Sew a button on right side.

28. Hem jeans at desired length.

29. Press in creases by lining up inside and outside leg seams.

BELT LOOPS Jeans can be made with or without belt loops.

1. Cut out the belt loops. Fold the strip double lengthwise, right sides together. Sew the long seam. Turn strip right side out. Topstitch strip along the edges. Cut ofF six loops the same length.

2. Mark loop positions so that they are all an equal distance from the top of the waistband. Place one loop at each side seam. Place another loop between the center back and the side seam. The other two loops are placed between the side seam and center front.

3. Turn under the raw edges of the loops and sew across.

		© Ragnar Torfason 2006 March 28