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Standing Collar

Generally known as the Mandarin or band collar, this basically uncomplicated collar is able to take on many exciting forms. It can be a stiff and close military collar or a soft loose band, and it can be cut in one or two sections depending on whether the finished edge is straight or curved. The depth of the collar and how closely it is fitted to the neck greatly affect the overall design of your garment. This collar will always work and look better if you cut your interfacing on the bias. It will curve around your neck srnoothly-without stiff cracks or breaks that mar a fine appearance.

Cut a bias strip of interfacing and attach it to the collar. If collar is cut in one section, use long running stitches to hold interfacing along foldline. Fold the collar and stitch the ends to within Vs" (15 mmi of the neckline edge. Trim and grade the seam allowances (1)@ Turn and press the ends only, not the foldline, or you may have an undesirable crease in the finished collar.

For either a front or back opening, insert your zipper or facings.

Baste and stitch the interfaced side of the collar to the garment neck edge, matching all markings and clipping the garment where necessary. Trim and grade the searns, leaving the garment seam allowance widest (2). Press the seam toward the collar. Trim and turn in the remaining edge of the collar and slipstitch over the seam. For hard-to-handle fabrics, you may want to baste close to the fold of the turned-under edge before slipstitching the edge in place (3). Fasten the collar ends with hooks and thread eyes. Complete the buttonholes and anchor the facing in place as required.

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2006 March 28