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Raglan Sleeve
This sleeve is well liked for its comfortable fit and relatively easy construction. Its diagonal seam line can lead into another seam or form part of a neckline. It can be cut on the straight or bias grain, with a one- or two-piece construction. The shoulder curve is part of the sleeve shape, and is created by a dart, a seam, or gathers.

First stitch the dart or shoulder seam and the sleeve seam. Press the seams open (1). Pin and baste the sleeve into the armhole, matching notches, symbols, and underarm seams (2). Try on the garment.

The curve of the dart or seam should conform to your own shoulder and upper arm shape, with the sharpest part of the curve neither above nor below the point of your shoulder. Test it, standing in a normal position with your arms down. Then swing your arms, making sure there is enough room for comfortable movement. Adjust if necessary, referring to the hints in the adjustment section, pages 93 to 95.

Stitch, then stitch again 1/4" (6 mm) away in the underarm seam allowance between the notches. Clip at ends of the second row of stitching, trim close to this stitching, and overcast or zigzag the edge. Press the seam open above the clips (3).

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2006 March 28